Châteaux & Croissants with Molly Baz & Ben Willett
The best-selling cookbook author and innovative furniture designer report back on two delicious weeks in the Sancerre wine country and the South of France.
- Category
- Inside Guide
- Written by
- Boutique
- Published
- April 14, 2024
Much-loved food writer Molly Baz and her husband, creative director turned furniture designer Ben Willett, are just back from a fortnight in France, where they spent some long overdue downtime at two classic properties in our French collection, Le Château de Thauvenay and Maison Mastrorelli. On their return, they shared some tips on where to go and what to eat at each of their stays.
First stop, Le Château de Thauvenay, an expansive stately home less than two hours from Paris in the Centre-Val de Loire. With a saltwater swimming pool and a wood-fired outdoor spa in its manicured grounds, it's a destination in itself, but for those who want to venture out, here are Molly and Ben's suggestions.
1. "Hike in the many acres of Sancerre vineyards that you can access directly from the Château."
A quilted landscape stitches the hillsides beyond the Château’s eight-acre woods for easy daily walks (with or without a canine companion) in a classic, French country backdrop.
Photo: Molly Baz @mollybaz
2. "Visit Emmaüs, an antique market which sells everything from used clothing to vintage furniture, record players, antique silver and tchotchkes. The market is open only on Wednesdays in Neuvy-sur-Loire."
Trinkets, treasures and curiosities fill the tables at the weekly flea market in the riverfront village of Neuvy-sur-Loire. Sales benefit Emmaüs, an international charity that combats homelessness.
3. "The best local farmers market takes place in the main square at Saint-Satur on Thursdays until 1pm. Make sure to hit the charcuterie vendor. Their pâtés are incredible. This is the best place to buy produce in the area as well."
Merchants sell both imported and locally grown produce and specialize in a favorite regional goat cheese, the tiny Crottin de Chavignol, a perfect pairing for local Sancerre wines. This artisan charcuterie truck at the Thursday morning Saint-Satur market advertises “chevaline,” or horse meat, a meat legalized in 19th-century France as an alternative source for feeding hungry masses.
Photo: Molly Baz @mollybaz
Photo: Ben Willett @willett
4. "There are miles and miles of bike paths along the Loire canals which you can take to visit the many small towns in the area."
La Loire à Vélo path, France’s most popular bike route, runs 900 kilometers through the country’s legendary Loire River valley. The route snakes through medieval towns, around tiny river ports, and past the imposing castle gates that once greeted the French court.
Photo: Ben Willett @willett
Molly and Ben's next stop was Maison Mastrorelli, an 18th-century coaching inn in Provence, located between Grasse and Saint-Paul de Vence on the French Riviera. Lime-washed stone walls, green shutters and a lace of climbing flowers are complemented by a landscaped garden with pool, boules court and outdoor kitchen, perfect for foodies and growing families alike. Here are Molly and Ben's must-sees in the surrounding region.
Photo: Ben Willett @willett
1. "Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul de Vence, an incredible indoor/outdoor contemporary art museum and library, with many enormous Joan Miró sculptures on permanent display."
France’s first independent art foundation, the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul de Vence houses works by some of the biggest sculptors of the 20th century, from Georges Braque and Joan Miró to Alberto Giacometti. It's also home to the outdoor Miró Labyrinth, a marked pathway that leads visitors on a tour of works by the Catalan artist.
Photo: Molly Baz @mollybaz
2. "Lunch at Colombe d’Or Hotel is a classic. It sits at the bottom of an ancient walled town. The interior walls feature many famous contemporary artists. If museums aren't your thing, go here."
One of Provence’s most storied café-bars, the Colombe d’Or is still run by its original owners, the Roux family. In its colorful heyday, the hotel fed artists who exchanged their works for meals or rooms. By the 1950s, the Colombe d’Or had turned celebrity playground, welcoming artists like Miró, Braque, Chagall and Calder, and hosting the weddings of French stars such as Yves Montand and Simone Signoret.
Photo: Molly Baz @mollybaz
3. "The ancient hilltop fortified town of Èze. No cars on the streets, cobblestones everywhere, it's a blast from the past."
Famed for its spectacular views, the French Riviera village has inspired generations of visitors and even Walt Disney who, it’s reported, did his best to replicate its breathtakingly cinematic, fairytale beauty.
Photo: Ben Willett @willett
4. "The best and most isolated beaches we found were a hike away, where less tourists venture. This one was a 15-minute hike down a steep hill to the Plage Mala in Cap d’Ail. Epic cerulean waters and cliffside views."
Plage Mala is a secluded cove beach reachable on foot from Cap d’Ail between Nice and Monaco. Daring beachgoers throw themselves from the clifftops into the turquoise Mediterranean, while sun seekers lie low on picnic blankets or the fine white sand, and feast on fresh-caught seafood at one of two beachfront restaurants.
Photo: Molly Baz @mollybaz
5. "Of the many croissants that were consumed, this one stood out from the rest. All butter croissant from Les délices de Roquefort bakery in Roquefort les Pins, just a few minutes drive from Mastrorelli."
Roquefort les Pins is a low-key, inland community between wooded Provencal mountains and the Mediterranean sea. Equidistant from its better-known neighbors, Nice, Antibes, and Cannes, it's a favorite starting point for hikers. Perfect for walking off the morning's pastries.
Photo: Molly Baz @mollybaz
STAY: Le Château de Thauvenay, Maison Mastrorelli
VISIT: Emmaüs market, Fondation Maeght, Plage Mala
BIKE: La Loire à Vélo
