Palazzo dei Mercanti

Ancient Ambiance, Aeolian Soul

A noble, 19th-century residential compound hides behind a time-weathered door amid a jasmine-scented garden in a tiny island village. The property, once the lively home of sea masters who found peace inside its soothing walls, covers three levels, one that formerly housed a millstone and warehouse, the second a manor house with beguiling period furniture, frescoed ceilings, and majolica floor tiles, and way up top, a roof terrace, with dominating views of the village church, volcanic mountains, and the foamy seascape. The three units can be rented individually or together.

A venerable property delicately updated at the hands of an artist, this enduring palazzo offers an ambiance of wistful authenticity. Exquisite original details have been revealed like uncovered treasures, and bedrooms and common areas are enchantingly antique, with a soothing dose of intentionally faded glamour. The palace covers three stories on a south-facing hillside, and is set inside an enclosed flowering garden in the heart of a small village.

Up to 12 guests can fill this vacation home for rent in Italy, with its five bedrooms and four baths, three separate kitchens, living and dining areas, and multiple terraces including the rooftop space that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea in a celebration of raw, pure beauty. Alternatively, the three apartments can be booked individually, sharing the solarium terrace and garden.

It’s an ideal home for reverent souls, those who appreciate the simple charms of a bygone era. Furnishings are period pieces, spare and nostalgic, such as inlaid wood bedframes, antique writing desks and upholstered chairs, and the décor is in homage to the nostalgic beauty of 19th century, with timeless, preserved fixtures and frescoed ceiling vaults. 

The ground floor that once housed a wine press now sleeps seven and has two independent kitchens. The central story is accessible up a sun-splattered stairway where two more bedrooms sleep five, and a traditional Aeolian kitchen opens outdoors as does a romantic double terrace. Beds are set under frescoed ceilings, and floors are paved in the timeworn patterns of majolica tiles pulled from the kilns of masters from the 1800s.

A rooftop terrace, accessible from a spiral staircase, holds the home’s most commanding position. With a dreamscape view set in the shadow of the church’s bell tower, the patio overlooks the silhouettes of the island’s twin volcanic peaks and the glinting sea, and offers simple, contemplative seating.

AROUND

This vacation home for rent in Italy is located in Leni, a small village of fewer than 1,000 residents, on the Aeolian island of Salina, with a historic center that was constructed under the direction of a noble family in the 17th century. Known as the islands of sun, sea and fire, the Aeolian Islands are referred to as the “seven pearls,” with Salina best known for its thick green woods and mountains, vineyards of sweet Malvasia wine grapes, and abundant flowering caper plants covering the hills. 

It’s an ideal base from which to explore the six other islands in the archipelago, and it is ruggedly volcanic, with characteristic ebony lava rocks, black sand beaches and dramatic jet cliffs plunging into the sea. Bougainvillea, lemon and fig trees, and jasmine and grape vines spill into village streets, and the island’s waterfront is made up of dramatic coves of pebbled beaches where the volcanic ridges plunge to the sea. 

The island is languid and low key, a great place for hiking, scootering through winding inland villages and landscapes, wine and food tastings, and lots of outdoor explorations. The award-winning film Il Postino was filmed on the island in the village of Pollara, and it and other small, sleepy villages are typical of the isle.

LOCATION

Leni, Salina, Aeolian Islands, Italy. Nearest airports: Naples or Catania. There are two ways to reach Salina, by ferry from Naples (which runs twice daily and takes approx. 5.5 hours) and by ferry from the port of Milazzo (which runs multiple times per day, taking 1.5-3 hours). The latter is the fastest way to reach the Aeolian islands, and in this case the most convenient airport is Catania.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Year round